Ambrosia Riggins sat at a picnic table in Millenium Park in Lake Charles, La., a pound each of crawfish and shrimp heaped onto an open plastic foam container in front of her, looking out at the pier and the roller-coaster-esque Calcasieu River Bridge in the distance.
“I grew up on seafood,” she said, expertly liberating the crawfish meat from its shell with a twist and a peel. “Seafood is what Louisiana is all about.”
Riggins had spent an hour in line at Honey B, her favorite place to get crawfish in Lake Charles, which had reopened for the season that day. The mudbugs set her back $8.99 a pound — if you want them this early, you have to pay, she says.
The setting sun illuminates a field with crawfish traps Saturday, Jan. 22, 2022, near Crowley, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
It’s late January in southwest Louisiana. A mild winter brought an early start to crawfish season this year; many restaurants recorded their earliest start ever. But a cold front coming through that week put a damper on the initial buzz — the crustaceans bury themselves in the mud when it’s cold — leaving operators wondering if they’d have enough good product to open that weekend and diners doing a little more digging to find it.
Ambrosia Riggins eats crawfish at Millennium Park in Lake Charles. “As far as the seafood, I don’t know if you guys have us beat,” she said comparing Louisiana and Texas.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Chad Pousson, co-owner of BeauxDines’, smiles as he talks with a reporter Wednesday, Jan. 19, 2022, at the restaurant in Lake Charles.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
(L)Ambrosia Riggins eats crawfish at Millennium Park in Lake Charles. “As far as the seafood, I don’t know if you guys have us beat,” she said comparing Louisiana and Texas. (R) Chad Pousson, co-owner of BeauxDines’, smiles as he talks with a reporter Wednesday, Jan. 19, 2022, at the restaurant in Lake Charles. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Around lunchtime at BeauxDines, owners Todd Armentau and Chad Pousson were waiting for a late crawfish arrival. When it finally came, they received 19 sacks and “a piece” — a sack that is not full. During peak season on all-you-can-eat Tuesdays, they can blow through 140 sacks in just a few hours. The delivery man was heading to Seafood Palace on the east side of town next. “Is his piece bigger than mine?” Pousson yelled, half-jokingly, after him as he left.
There are definitely people who want that “first rush,” said C. Edward Wilkerson Jr., the owner of Louisiana Crawfish Time in Lafayette. He tries to strike the balance between offering crawfish as early as possible but maintaining the size and quality of what he’s serving. Typically, people understand if he has to withhold it from the menu when the catch isn’t up to standards. Legendary restaurant Hawk’s, in nearby Rayne, doesn’t open at all until February.
The sun sets over a field with crawfish traps Wednesday, Jan. 19, 2022, near Rayne, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Everyone is waiting for what Wilkerson calls the “aha season” — when the crawfish is so excellent and plentiful, harvesting it is like being on cruise control. This is the best time to go on a crawfish trail. By March, Houstonians should consider making plans for a weekend trip to southwest Louisiana.
When you ask locals if they remember the first time they ate or cooked crawfish, you’ll find yourself on the other side of a blank stare. Crawfish is so ingrained in Cajun and Creole culture, southwest Louisianans have been boiling them in their backyard their entire lives. In the 1950s, restaurants began offering crawfish boils in a dine-in setting, enmeshing them further into the community’s fabric.
Crawfish and corn, photographed Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at Crazy ‘Bout Crawfish in Breaux Bridge, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
In 1957, Red Richard opened Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville — pronounced, of course, Ree-shahr — pivoting from a live seafood market to a restaurant serving boiled crawfish. His son, Calvin Richard, and daughter-in-law, Roxanne Gilton, took it over in 1983.
Tony Trahan, left, and Larry Conway prepare orders of crawfish Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, La. Conway said he was a seasonal worker at the restaurant, spending half the year on fishing boats.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Derrick Richard grew up boiling crawfish at Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Larry Conway boils crawfish at Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, La. He works at the restaurant half the year, and on a fishing boat the other half.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Tricia Melancon, center, blows out candles to celebrate her 50th birthday with coworkers at Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, La. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
At 6 p.m. on a cold and damp Thursday, the area around Richard’s is quiet and pitch black, the narrow country roads and entrance to the restaurant’s makeshift parking lot only discernible with car headlights. Inside, it’s full of light and life.
At one table, a server explained how to peel and eat crawfish to an Israeli couple on an RV road trip; they were staying in the area two nights before heading to Houston. Jason Sellers and Mauricio Herrera were hunched over huge metal trays, hungry from their duck hunting trip. Sellers, who is from Abbeville, wanted to show his colleague an old-time favorite while he was in town from the Houston area. Herrera said the crawfish here was better than anything he’s had back home.
Jason Sellers eats crawfish with a friend after they spent the day duck hunting Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at Richard’s Seafood Patio in Abbeville, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
In the kitchen, toward the end of service, the staff sang happy birthday to one of the waitresses, who bent over to blow out the candles on her cake as she balanced a tray full of empty crawfish shells she had been bussing.
On the other side of town, this same sense of community is found at Cajun Claws. The restaurant’s walls are lined with white trays decorated and graffitied by regulars, celebrities like former NFL quarterback Drew Brees, and other lucky patrons who are granted one on a case-by-case basis.
Donni Choate smiles as he boils crawfish Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Cajun Claws in Abbeville, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Decorated trays line the walls Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Cajun Claws in Abbeville, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Guests share a laugh over crawfish and drinks at Cajun Claws in Abbeville, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Cajun Claws in Abbeville, La. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
In the back, owner Donni Choate has manned the same station since Cajun Claws opened in 1996. Two chain hooks attached to a ceiling conveyor belt hover above six large metal stock pots. On a recent Friday night, he waltzed from one end to the other, hooking the pots and hauling them up to check for doneness, in a seemingly effortless dance.
Choate boils the crawfish in plain water; he says salt draws the moisture out. Then, he soaks them in seasoning at a different temperature, about 180 degrees — not too hot, not too cold, or it won’t work. The key to this process is finely chopped cayenne pepper skins, which sink to the bottom and impart flavor without getting in the way of the crawfish, he explains.
After the boiled crawfish is scooped out onto a tray, it’s sprinkled with a dry seasoning that Choate’s father-in-law created, with half the salt of Tony Chachere’s, because he has heart disease.
The sun sets over a field containing crawfish traps near Crowley, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
There are almost as many variations on the crawfish boil as there are Cajun restaurants in southwest Louisiana. At Richard’s, the crew boils in decades-old cast-iron pots, the way Red Richard did it back in the 1950s. The restaurant also has the best diversity of table condiments, including Uncle Easy’s Tio Bueno chipotle sauce and all-purpose seasoning from Pippi’s Purpose, a local Abbeville business, as well as the more common Tabasco, Worcestershire and Cajun Power sauces.
At K-B’s Boiling Shack in Breaux Bridge, Amy and Kenneth Breaux include bay leaf powder in their liquid boil and Chinese pepper powder in their dry seasoning, along with the classic Swamp Dust and cayenne. Amy’s “famous dip” is one of the most unique versions of the region: Instead of the usual mayo and ketchup, she swaps out the latter for sriracha to give it a kick.
Kasper Breaux prepares crawfish Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at K-B’s Boiling Shack in Breaux Bridge, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Boiled and seasoned crawfish beckon at K-B’s Boiling Shack in Breaux Bridge, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Kasper Breaux prepares crawfish Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at K-B’s Boiling Shack in Breaux Bridge, La./ Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
K-B’s is drive-thru only. On busy days, a line of cars stretches down the block in the mostly residential Breaux Bridge neighborhood. While the town is sometimes overshadowed by nearby Lafayette and Abbeville, it is actually very important for crawfish tourism in the region.
According to the Historic New Orleans Collection, Breaux Bridge restaurants were the first to offer crawfish on their menus, particularly in étouffées. The town was dubbed the “Crawfish Capital of the World” by the Louisiana Legislature in 1959.
A welcoming mural decorates the side of a donut shop in Breaux Bridge, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Breaux Bridge, along Bayou Teche, was dubbed the “Crawfish Capital of the World” by the Louisiana Legislature.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Breaux Bridge, along Bayou Teche, was dubbed the “Crawfish Capital of the World” by the Louisiana Legislature. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Breaux Bridge is now home to the annual Crawfish Festival. For three days in May each year, more than 30,000 people descend on the town of 8,000. A pageant is held each year to crown the Crawfish King and the Crawfish Queen.
Current Crawfish Queen Jaycee Champagne made an appearance at Monroe’s Boutique on a recent Saturday afternoon. It felt like a small-town, out-in-the-wild celebrity sighting: Champagne was wearing a lilac sweatshirt, baggy pants and white Crocs. She was shopping for a gown to wear to the Washington Mardi Gras Ball in Washington, D.C., where she would represent Louisiana as Crawfish Queen.
Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival Queen Jaycee Champagne smiles as she notices a photo of a past queen at Monroe’s Boutique in the Crawfish Capital.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Jaycee Champagne, center, looks for a dress for an upcoming festival with her mother Kayla Patel and younger sister Eliana Patel, 3, on Saturday, Jan. 22, 2022, at Monroe’s Boutique in Breaux Bridge, La. Champagne is the upcoming Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival Queen. “I was very proud of her when she won, because she’s representing our festival and our industry,” her mom said.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Breaux Bridge Crawfish Festival Queen Jaycee Champagne smiles at Monroe’s Boutique in the Crawfish Capital. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
The crustacean is a regular feature in state-pride pageantry. In a fairly recent tradition, Barry Toups, the owner of Crawfish Haven and Mrs. Rose’s Bed and Breakfast in Kaplan, joins the Louisiana lieutenant governor every year in a crawfish-pardoning ceremony on Thanksgiving.
Toups offers crawfishing excursions in Kaplan, a great way for visitors to gain a better understanding of the shellfish’s natural habitat and how it’s harvested.
He had been in the business of flipping houses when, in 2010, he purchased 28 acres of land across the street from where a lady named Rose Robichaux lived. She became like a grandmother to him, and when she passed away in 2013, Toups bought her house, eventually turning it into a bed-and-breakfast. It sits on 2 acres with crawfish ponds, which became the Crawfish Haven part of the business.
Toups hosts Cajun cooking classes and other events. He takes on special projects every year, such as a cookbook with recipes from him and his mother, the late Ena Toups. In 2021, he built a gift shop where he sells his proprietary seasoning blend and Crawfish Haven merchandise.
Crawfish traps sit in a field Saturday, Jan. 22, 2022, near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Barry Toups, owner of Crawfish Haven, works on a crawfish boat near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Barry Toups, owner of Crawfish Haven, sorts freshly caught crawfish on a boat near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Blaine Lopez boils crawfish at Crawfish Haven near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Barry Toups, owner of Crawfish Haven, sorts freshly caught crawfish on a boat near Kaplan, La. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Ahead of the cold front, he baited the crawfish on Wednesday to make sure he had a good catch by Friday, before they buried themselves in the mud. The excursion is fun, but Toups puts his visitors to work. If you’re on the crawfish boat, you have to help him harvest by lifting the triangular cages from the water and dumping their contents onto a sorting table, quickly returning the cage to the pond before grabbing the next one, all while the boat keeps moving. It’s an excellent squat workout.
The short expedition brought in a 16-pound half-sack, a decent amount for a freezing-cold day. Toups boiled it in Crawfish Haven seasoning and served it on picnic tables in the back of the bed-and-breakfast, where he often hosts large groups.
After several days of eating nothing but crawfish, there’s something special about devouring a catch you’ve harvested yourself.
WHERE TO EAT
Abbeville
Cajun Claws: An hourslong wait is likely at this Abbeville joint, but it’s worth it for Donni Choate’s cayenne-laced crawfish. Don’t sleep on the grilled and fried shrimp — or the crawfish nachos. 1928 Charity St., Abbeville, 337-893-9437; facebook.com/TheOriginalCajunClaws
Richard’s Seafood Patio: An Abbeville institution since 1957, Richard’s — pronounced the French way, Ree-shahr — boils its crawfish in cast-iron pots and serves it in a lively, convivial space with a country feel. 1516 S Henry St., Abbeville, 337-893-1693; facebook.com/Richards-Seafood-Patio-203085219715211
Breaux Bridge
Boiled and seasoned crawfish, photographed Thursday, Jan. 20, 2022, at K-B’s Boiling Shack in Breaux Bridge, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
K-B’s Boiling Shack: Amy and Kenneth Breaux harvest about 90 percent of their crawfish themselves from leased land and recently bought 30 acres to put in their own ponds. K-B’s is a drive-thru-only spot where the spice level is spot-on and the dip is a ketchupless mayo-sriracha mix. 1600 Grand Pointe Ave., Breaux Bridge, 337-332-0411; facebook.com/kbsboilingshack
Lake Charles
A crawfish tries to climb out of a colander at BeauxDines’ in Lake Charles.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
BeauxDines: A large patio and live music in the evenings has made this new spot a hit with Lake Charles locals and visitors alike. All-you-can-eat Tuesdays cost between $29.99 and $39.99 for unlimited crawfish. 3013 Ryan St., Lake Charles, 337-240-8728; facebook.com/beauxdines
Seafood Palace: There’s a 4-pound minimum at this family-friendly Lake Charles restaurant, but the addictive spiciness of the crawfish is worth the stretch, even for a solo diner. 2218 Enterprise Blvd., Lake Charles, 337-433-9293; facebook.com/seafoodpalace
Lafayette
A waitress carries dishes as people dine Wednesday, Jan. 19, 2022, at The Cajun Table in Lafayette.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Cajun Table: First a concession stand, then a food truck, Cajun Table moved into its strip mall space in 2021. The walls are decorated with family photos and crawfishing cages. Complimentary pork rinds to start are a nice touch, and the well-seasoned crawfish comes in varying levels of spice. 4510 Ambassador Caffery Parkway, Lafayette, 337-806-9565; thecajuntablellc.com
Louisiana Crawfish Time: Starting from humble beginnings in a tiny shacklike space, Louisiana Crawfish Time moved into its current, roomy restaurant in 2012. Owner C. Edward Wilkerson Jr. grades the crawfish and is serious about offering quality over quantity. 2019 Verot School Road, Lafayette, 337-988-2645; lacrawfishtime.com
Rayne
Hawk’s: The iconic restaurant, located in the middle of endless crawfish fields, is the country dining road trip everyone needs. Owners Anthony and Jennifer Arceneaux only open when the season is in full swing, typically in February. 415 Hawks Road, Rayne, 337-788-3266; hawkscrawfish.com
WHERE TO STAY
Caldwell House: Located in a large historic home, the Caldwell House has five guest rooms and a couple of communal spaces. For $750 a night, the entire house can be rented for large parties attending family reunions or weddings. From $115 a night. 105 E. Vermilion, Abbeville, 337-281-0807; thecaldwell.com
Crawfish Haven/Mrs. Rose’s Bed and Breakfast:
Steam rises from boiled crawfish Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Crawfish Haven near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
A Catholic-themed decoration sits next to a crawfish trap Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Crawfish Haven near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Water evaporates as it hits the side of a boiler when the lid is opened, as crawfish boil, Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Crawfish Haven near Kaplan, La.
Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Steam rises from boiled crawfish Friday, Jan. 21, 2022, at Crawfish Haven near Kaplan, La. / Jon Shapley, Houston Chronicle / Staff photographer
Barry Toups renovated this old home in Kaplan to make it into a bed-and-breakfast, where he hosts Cajun cooking classes and crawfishing excursions in the backyard ponds. From $125 a night. Crawfish excursions $50 for B&B guests, $75 for nonguests. 6807 Louisiana Highway 35, Kaplan, 337-652-8870; crawfishhaven.net
L’Auberge Casino Resort: This massive lakefront hotel is great for in-house entertainment, gambling and dining, or for having a comfortable perch to explore the rest of Lake Charles. From $130 a night. 777 Avenue L’Auberge, Lake Charles, 337-395-7777; llakecharles.com
T’Frere’s House Bed & Breakfast: This charming hotel in downtown Lafayette is one of the best places to stay in the region. The rooms are comfortable and quaint, and host Katherine Cobb will make you feel right at home with her warm hospitality and delicious breakfasts. From $125 a night. 1905 Verot School Road, Lafayette, 337-984-9347; tfrereshouse.com